Author: atsushijp

It is such an honor to see an article about me & our Sashiko in the Issue 102, September / October 2021 of Selvedge Magazine (@selvedgemagazine). It was 2017 to learn about the Selvedge Magazine from my dear friend in NYC. She insisted that I should work hard to be in the magazine one day. After 4 years passed, I am happy that I could make it happen. Without her encouragement, it wouldn’t happen.

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I also hugely appreciate the writer who interviewed me. In the media, when they have a “close deadline”, the interviewers often try to get out of what they want to write (or what they already have written) from my mouth or writing. Instead, the writer in Selvedge wrote the article from scratch based on what we had taken for a few hours. The article is fantastically summarized as her understanding of Sashiko: I wouldn’t be able to summarize my message so nicely and clearly (therefore, I share so many stories here and there… hahaha). 

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If you subscribe to Selvedge Magazine, please wait for the copy of Issue 102. I am waiting for mine as well. If not, I recommend you to try one issue, or subscribe to the magazine, especially if you like the textile & fabric. I believe it is important to support a publisher like Selvedge who cares for the makers & It is always fun to read & enjoy beautiful photos. Let me know what you think about the article they wrote for me.

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2017年に英語で刺し子をお教えすることになる前は、英語圏での刺し子については、ほとんど気を配っていませんでした。なんでだろう……と今でも不思議に思うほどに、僕の刺し子の意識は国内限定でした。日本国外から刺し子への興味を頂いたら、「あら、嬉しい」くらいの気持ちで。

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その後、様々な方とお話をする中で、英語圏での刺し子についての認識が深まります。そんな英語での刺し子の恩人と言える友人から「淳は、この雑誌に掲載される所をまず目指すべき」と助言を頂いたのが、”Selvedge”という英国のテキスタイル雑誌でした。4年後の今、取材を頂き掲載頂けた事、一つ一つの積み重ねと、その積み重ねに手を差し伸べてくださった皆様のおかげだなと思っています。メディア嫌いを何度か口にしてますが、こうして丁寧に取材下さるのは本当に有り難い限りです。これからも一つずつ重ねていくだけですね。

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“Internet” changes pretty much everything about how we live. By enabling the “free” communications, many “stones” and “gems” got into the same box. It is us, individuals, to find what is a gem (valuable to them) and what is a stone (not so valuable). The internet makes anyone able to speak up anything: One can be a teacher by watching a video on the Internet and reading several books/articles even if it is not the “1st” resources. It isn’t a matter of good or bad. We just need to realize that it changed. The Internet can be a dangerous place when one cannot see through what is truth and fake.

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Some may think the freedom in the Internet (Social Network) brings a series of unfortunate outcomes. I feel similar when I encounter ignorance (often with privilege, but not accepting it) and arrogance without learning. However, it is also true that the Internet enables us (minority in comparison) to leave “the voices” behind. Usually, the “strong side (winner)” makes history. Although the history as the fact is always “One”, the stories may be filtered by those who can control. What I try to do is to introduce those “possibly filtered stories” because they didn’t have chances to leave. Without the Internet, what I am doing (including Sashiko itself) may have been buried in history as “Sashiko is a technique to make beautiful patterns, and Boro is a mending Technique”. Please know that [Sashiko = pattern & Boro = technique] is a story filtered by someone who benefits from it. Then you may wonder what they are? This is the account to teach you by sharing many stories. It isn’t me who will teach you what it is. It is you who find out what it is from the stories. 

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久々の講演会。無事に完遂することができました。日本人の方もご参加下さっていて、笑顔でご挨拶頂けたりして、何よりもほっとしています。「刺し子は（日本の）針仕事」で完結する内容なのですが、これだけシンプルな言葉で完結するからこそ、日本的な何かを言葉にしなきゃいけないと思うのですよ。前提が違う所から始まっているのでね。そんな話を日本語でもしていけたらと思っています。今週、金曜日の夜にYoutubeで配信しますね。

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I believe the people here have already realized it. However, just in case, here it is. I am NOT limiting your creativity. In fact, I am doing the opposite. I am helping you to expand your possibilities. Before criticizing what I write based on your “common sense”, realize it by reading between lines. It isn’t so difficult once you become mindful of what I am doing.

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“Whatever is fine because it is Art” is a valid statement. However, please be aware that their “whatever” is already limited by someone’s convenience. So, they are choosing “whatever they can choose” and calling it “Art”… and resulting in changing the culture. Keep learning so that you can expand “whatever” – it is what I tell my students. Whatever is good when you “can do / know” what I am sharing. 

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Unfortunately, today’s Sashiko in English is missing the most delicious part. It doesn’t make me so angry, just sad. Some are eating “Pizza without Cheese” and calling it a delicious pizza. Before saying whatever is fine, the “whatever” unfortunately doesn’t include the cheese. Yes, you can add “whatever toppings” on pizza, but I want you to enjoy the rich greasy cheese. Once you know the taste of cheese, then let’s go find what is the best cheese for your pizza.

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What they know about the foreign culture is already limited when common sense & language are different. I am not limiting anyone. I am just saying I do not want you to give up on something important by trusting the convenient route. Don’t trust “whatever”: please find YOUR “whatever”.

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素敵なワークショップの時間を過ごせました。変わらず写真はございません（笑）こればっかりは写真撮影用のスタッフを雇えるようになるまでは無理ですね。ただ雇う予定はないのでワークショップ中の写真は貴重なものになりそうです。いろいろ言われるSNSですが、受講頂ければ必ず「あぁそうなのか」と言われるものを作れています。運針会でもそれをお伝えしますね。

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Another sink-in-thought night. I laughed at the insane DM I received (shared in Story). Then, I freaked out from my heart when some advised me “Well, it isn’t so uncommon” via DM. Not one. Several same advice. If one claims that she has read all of my writing, and then comes up with a completely false story from out of nowhere, then there is no safe place. Well, I can be okay in dangerous places. I appreciate all of your DMs & comments.

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I have been thinking “why”, though. There are 2 extreme groups of people in this account. One who enjoys what I write. The others hate my messages for “threatening” their freedom. Since “haters” unfollow, 99.9% of the people here are who appreciate me & whom I appreciate to. It is so unfortunate that the “Pain” is not by majority decision. If so, the pain wouldn’t be this bad. 

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But again, why 2 extreme reactions from 1 story? Here is one possibility. It is because I “share stories” instead of telling them“What to do”. It is much easier for me to share “How to” if my goal is to make money & increase the followers. However, it doesn’t pass down the whole picture of Sashiko/Boro. Therefore, I share “stories”, not directions to follow. Therefore, the stories become like a mirror. They read my stories, and adapt it to their own experience. When they do not “imagine” well, then they face the “message” they carry within.

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This is one exact reason that I want them to “learn” Sashiko. The technique I share is NOT how to make beautiful stitches. They can make beautiful stitches, but that’s not the point. It is MORE than that. I accept changes in culture. However, the changes should be done by those who understand the important elements of its practice: So, what I share is the mirror via Sashiko stitching.

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もう……ワークショップの直前なのに。でも大切なことなので。

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Many many years ago, you may have mended your jeans. After 40~50 years have passed, you learn there is the word “Boro” for that. You didn’t know that there was a name for what you did. Well. Boro is a foreign word for you, so what you did may be Boro or may not. Instead of framing what you did into the current trend & wording, please be proud of what you actually did. Why isn’t just “mending jeans” enough? Why do you have to use the word “Boro”?

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I am NOT saying you shouldn’t use the word Boro. I just want you to know that the word Boro carries more than “mending whatever”. Since what you did 50 years ago wasn’t in Japan, it may be the same, or maybe different. It is, of course, “mending” for sure, but Boro? We don’t know. Therefore, please be “careful” and try to learn what “Boro” may be for one group of people: like me.

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I say this outloud because there is another group of people who use “Boro” (or Sashiko) for other purposes rather than just referring to the practice you did. It can be for “money making”, “admiration”, “recognition as the Artist”, and “validation”. It is okay when they “try” to learn what Boro means… but when they say, “I don’t care. Leave me alone (but I will keep calling it Boro)” is the form of Cultural Appropriation causing a lot of pain. 

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Please be proud of your own culture. You do not need to name what you did from the foreign culture, so I am proud of my own culture of Sashiko & Boro. If you are interested in the Japanese culture, mindset, philosophy, and practice of Sashiko & Boro, then you will probably choose to keep learning. I welcome you here, and this account is for sharing something that Western people have not shared yet (due to ignorance, discomfort, or inconvenience). 

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I am posting this because I had to work on huge emotional labor this morning toward the ignorant comment saying “Word doesn’t matter so stop whining”. (It was on a FB group – not mine) The word and name matter to me. I am learning, though, how C/A can happen.

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とんでもないことになったので、連投です。来週配信でお話します。一つお題。「襤褸（ぼろ）の核になるもの」って一体なんなんでしょうか？文化は進化すべきものだと考えますが、中心核になるものは変えたくないのですよ。いや、それにしても本当に勉強になります。

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I know the word “Cultural Appropriation” bothers some people. However, there is “pain” over their uncomfortableness. C/A can be avoided by learning & imagining, yet people with privilege choose not to do so. Therefore, it became an issue. It is not us who made C/A as the issue, it is them. 

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“Let’s embrace the imperfection in Sashiko”. “The core of Boro is using whatever we have (so we should enjoy it without caring for the C/A)”. These are very painful phrases to me: not anger, deep fear and sadness. I have spent so much time with many Sashiko practitioners, who never considered themselves Artist, or even Artisans. They make “perfect” Sashiko after 60+ years of experience, yet they always try to be better. They all admitted that the hand-stitching will not be “perfect”, but none of them embraced the imperfection: They worked hard to get better for their entire life. 

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It is true that Boro is an outcome of limited resources. Therefore, for those who can choose, the sustainability of no-waste with expressing their “art” can be a good word adaptation as Boro, saying visible mending. This isn’t wrong, but it is missing an important part of culture. And ignoring (not trying to imagine) the voices is the form of C/A. Everyone has their opinion, and I respect it. However, are they happy with their opinion knowing it exists over someone’s pain? My message is simple. If one isn’t comfortable with “the Japanese ordinary (common sense)”, then the understanding of Sashiko/Boro is most likely insufficient. Therefore, keep learning. When one decides to ignore it because it is inconvenient or uncomfortable, then it become the issue of Cultural Appropriation. 

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う〜ん。頻繁に、「マネーの虎、カナダ好きの回」の話をするのですが、「加が好きで、加を紹介するビジネスを立ち上げたい」という人に対して、「加には何回行ったの？」という至極当然な質問。驚くべき返事は、「まだ加には行ったことがない」と。英語も多分勉強中？子供ながらに、なんだそりゃと思った記憶があります。

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同様に日本語を学ぼうとしない人が、日本文化について堂々と宣言するって、僕は嫌なんですよね。日本文化について議論するのであれば、日本人を巻き込まなきゃいけない。英語で日本文化について議論しても、大多数の日本人が参加できない議論であれば意味がないなぁと思うんです。ま、日本人も同じことしますけどね。仏語の言葉のニュアンスとかを日本語で議論してますし。

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Offering a lecture in the second language is challenging. Plus, since the topic is intercultural, the word choice becomes very important. I am aware that the people only listen to what they want to listen to. However, it doesn’t mean that I don’t need to practice to be better at communicating. It is my responsibility to find a better way to “share”.

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I was alone for a long time. At least, I felt lonely until I had a life-changing moment. The greatest outcome of me “teaching” and “sharing” is to meet my Sashiko friends: someone I can trust, rely on, and be honest without me fearing (worrying) the outcome. I had a “practice webinar” for the in-person lecture coming this weekend. Not only was it a good practice, but it also made me content (more confident) to the challenging time. 

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To be honest, I do not know if what I am doing is “good”. I am just screaming out loud with my pain & fear, to protect my identity. I “teach” Sashiko so that they can enjoy the most delicious part of Sashiko. I always wonder if what I do is good enough. I always “had” questioned myself if what I did was “needed” in society. My Sashiko friends, mainly those who learned Sashiko from me, come back to me to share their works, support me, and just hang out with smiles. They share their own stories. It is “the place (Ibasho)” for me to feel safe: I am here thanks to them and you who care to read our stories, and to be honest, that’s all I want. 

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今ではぶよぶよのおじさんになりましたが、昔はスラッとしてた頃もあり、尖ってた頃もありました。刺し子を斜めから見てた時期、あるいは「刺し子なんて未来に必要ないんじゃないか」と勝手に思ってた時期。当たり前に、健康的に、若かりし頃は刺し子に疑問を持ち、反抗してきて今があります。ま、毎回ギリギリの事が続いての今だけど。

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今と昔。何が一番違うかと言うと、「刺し子友達」の存在です。配信では繰り返し言っているのですが、恥ずかしいのを堪えて書くと、「刺し子好きな友達が欲しいなぁ」というのが、僕の配信の、運針会の原点だったりします。今週末の英語での刺し子講演。「練習するから見に来てー」という言葉に、友達が集まってくれ、1時間の練習を聞いてくれ、沢山のフィードバックを下さりました。日本でも、日本国外でも、刺し子を一緒に楽しみ、一緒に考えることができる友達が増えていること。それが一番何よりも嬉しいのです。正解とか間違いとかじゃなく、居場所を作りたいんです。作れることは分かったから。

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It is quite surprising to receive feedback that they didn’t know the some Japanese stitched Sashiko to strengthen the fabric. Making the fabric stronger by stitching in their harsh conditions with limited resources is one of the primary & important essences of Sashiko. Unfortunately, This is how “filtered” Sashiko is now in English. The trend is changing its principal. No wonder I feel fear. However, it is NOT your fault that you do not know about it. Not knowing isn’t the issue. In fact, I thank you for coming here to learn. It is an unfortunate result of Japanese being quiet (for many reasons including the language barrier). It is the Cultural Filtering done by privileged group (as considering English as “privilege” Language). When one speaks on behalf of their foeign culture, they have a responsibility to “communicate the whole” rather than making better sales. Making money is fine, but (intentional) ignorance is not fine.

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It is a valid question: “Does Sashiko really strengthen the fabric?” Yes. It is wisdom based on so many people’s practice & story. Not all stitching make fabric stronger, but our Sashiko does. Following the wisdom, many other questions will be answered with many stories. We have reasons why we use our specific thread, needle, thimble, and scissors. There are reasons for the patterns we stitch. The posture matters to make this wisdom happen. If one chooses “whatever” after knowing every story, then it is the “evolution” of Sashiko. However, if they say “whatever convenient” by ignorance, then it isn’t the change – it is just destroying the culture. It may be too late in Sashiko, but I know there are so many people here to listen & learn so we can pass some down. Sashiko is more than a trend.

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僕が配信でご紹介する刺し子の道具や材料、また技術については、ほぼ間違いなく「なぜ？」という裏付けがあった上でのお話です。なぜ僕が、特定の刺し子糸、針、指ぬきを使い、「運針」について喧しく言うのか。全て理由があります。なぜ理由を話せるかというと、それを幼少期に嫌という程聞いてきたから。「理由（なぜ）」って、煮詰めると智慧になるんですよね。英語で「刺し子の目的の一つは布の補強だよー」と昨日書いたら、「知らなかった！」という反応が。うん。英語圏の人は商売に忙しくて、そんな基本すら伝えようとしてないんだよ。だから毎日書いてるんですよ。

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Please, please respect the “eldery” people in the field you are interested, especially if you are just visiting. “Result”, “Outcome”, “Speed”, “Productivity” and “Efficiency”. They are all important aspects to be “Successful” in today’s society, but “An amount of time one had spent” in one field can be an irreplaceable treasure (wisdom). They spend so much time doing “something” in their limited resources. We can choose to use the dishwasher and be efficient. Can we “consider(define)” those who washes dishes by hand just “Not-efficient”? That is a very dangerous mindset to limit the culture. Same in Sashiko. If you are relatively new, first try to learn, then keep practicing. I welcome a good thought-out discussion. I have a lot to learn. For that, I am “eldery person” in Sashiko & learning a lot here. (For example, in the C/A issue, I am a newbie and all the statements I make can be insufficient – not wrong, insufficient. I am still learning).

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“An ability to adjust to new things (technology)” and “performing the expected meme” are very important in today’s society. Those who “can” adjust may look down on by those who “cannot”. However, those who “can” have to understand their “can” may be based on those people who “couldn’t”. Same in Sashiko. It is a fantastic movement to celebrate Sashiko. However, that celebration has to include those who made it happen (kept it until today). At least, let’s say without respect, the celebration cannot exclude those who had established the wisdoms. Do you think it is over-reacting? No, it is an on-going “trend” in Sashiko.

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「年配を敬え」という言葉。昔は嫌いでした（笑）長く生きてるからって尊敬の対象になるとは限らんだろって。でもね、今は普通に「年配の方々は敬え」と思っています。今のご時世、「尊敬」される為には何かが必要で、それは実力だったり、お金だったり、努力（できる環境）だったりします。実際、生産性や現代社会に求められるものを考えると、「老害」という言葉が出てくるのもわからなくもない。でもさ。人生って生産性だけじゃないし、「実力」とかもあくまで一部だと思うんですよね。年齢を重ねた方々の輝きって、智慧という言葉と共に、きっと敬うべきものとしてあるんだろうなと思っています。（全ての年配の人を敬えとは言ってません。人間性が駄目な人もいる。でもそれは年齢に関わらないのでね）。だから日本で刺し子をしていらっしゃる方々のお言葉は、どんなお言葉も真摯に受け止めて行きたいと思っています。

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“In making Sashiko Denim, do we stitch the denim pants first or mend it first?”. This is a frequent question I receive when I work on denim (in Live Streaming). When we know (or think of) the essence of Sashiko, the answer is decided: We stitch the pants first. Of course, mending is an important aspect of Sashiko. However, the Japanese stitched to “avoid” mending in their difficult condition. There is (almost) always an answer to a Sashiko question because Sashiko existed in the ordinary. “Just Because” is very rare. There are reasons, in fact, the Sashiko is the result of those “reasons (stories)”. Well, we call the result of those stories “Wisdom”, right? Is it so difficult to understand why I am working so hard to pass down these wisdoms? It is easy to lose (by just ignoring it), but it is almost impossible to revive it. I want to keep “it” as a choice, not filtered culture by someone who does not even know these wisdoms. 

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英語で刺し子を伝える中で、「指ぬきを使わない刺し子は間違っているの？」と極論の質問を頂くことがあります。毎回のように言葉にはしているのですが、「指ぬきを使わなくても刺し子でいいんじゃね？」と僕は思っています。ただ、刺し子を「日本の（全体をひっくるめた）刺し子」として、日本語以外で”教える”のであれば、「指ぬきが使えない」のは、流石に文化に対して失礼過ぎるだろうと。日本国外で、その言語で、他の文化を教える先生が「指ぬきを使わない」のは良いんです。でも、「指ぬきが使えない（から使わなくてもOK）」だと、指ぬきが必須な刺し子は否定されてしまうことになりかねない。

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英語圏で怖いのは、この「正しいか間違いか」をはっきりさせないといけないことです。中途半端は駄目なんです。正義を決めなきゃいけない。日本は「正解も間違いも」両方とも同時進行できるんです。そりゃ「あれは刺し子じゃない」とかっていう意見は日本語でもあると思いますよ。でも、議論はしても、最終的な正義を決める”喧嘩”にはならないんです。本当素敵な文化です。だから様々な形式が残り、文化が豊かだと言われる国になりました。海外の「正義以外は排除する」という刺し子が、万が一日本に入ってきた時の為に、やっぱり準備はしておかなきゃいけないと思うのですよ。刺し子に関わり、また英語圏で生活する一人として。

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