Sashiko Rules Boro

KUON Special Order Boro Jacket

Wow. WOW!! Look at this fantastic jacket, KUON Special Order Boro Jacket. Just stunning. Keiko (Sashi.Co & Keiko Futatsuya) mended with Sashiko stitching on the boro fabric. We are so happy to be a part of the production of this super cool jacket.

*All the photos are cited from KUON Website; https://www.kuon.tokyo

 

KUON Special Order Boro Jacket

KUON Special Order Boro Jacket | Amazing

KUON Special Order Boro Jacket

KUON is a fashion brand appreciating the Japanese traditional hand-crafting techniques in Japan including Sashiko, Boro and a lot more. They combine the beauty of Japanese vintage fabric and technique to modern fashion design. This collaboration of the vintage textile and modern fashion was my dream while I was working in Sashiko family business. We knew how to tailor jackets in Japanese traditional way, but we weren’t modern tailor or fashion designer. It is just amazing.

 

KUON means “eternity”,  “remote past or future”, and “permanence”.

While appreciating the history and culture of vintage clothes or textiles, KUON always seeks for permanent, simple, authentic value, not bound by traditional values.

KUON challenges the existing traditional notion on vintage clothes and revitalizes it with the new value.

New things get old, but beautiful things stay beautiful.

I am so happy to work with them, and they are (will be) the center of attention soon.

Sustainability, Upcycle, Repurpose, Boro and Sashiko

The words of sustainability, upcycle and repurpose represent our concepts in making Boros and Sashiko products. However, in depth, we would not want to forget that we are making fashion item. People like the fashionable and stylish product. When people use these fashionable products, it repurposes the fabric. It means we upcycled it. As a result, we contributed the sustainable society in the textile industry.

We believe that the Boro is the result of human instinct to be beautiful. 

 

It is very important to avoid confusing “result” and “process.”

We do not make Boro and Sashiko because we would like to focus on sustainability, upcycling and repurposing. We enjoy the style of Boro and Sashiko as the result of upcycling, repurposing, then it becomes a sustainable circle. It is less meaningful if we make something “not-stylish” yet “perfectly sustainable.” We would like to engage in making “very stylish and sustainable.”

 

KUON is brand leading which is leading this beautiful market. Let’s appreciate the fabric, and enjoy the most stylish thing ever.

Sashiko Starter Set 2

Sashiko Starter Set | Everything you need to Start

The word of Sashiko starts getting popular in 2000’s slowly but surely. I enjoyed Sashiko workshop in the Netherlands in 2012. I had many customers from Australia. Many people from Hawaii with Japanese heritage visited us throughout the years. However, Sashiko is still minor field. Many people wonder how to start it. Although it is simple to start Sashiko and it doesn’t require you to purchase a lot of expensive tools and/or materials, I thought it would be nice to prepare the “Sashiko Starter Set” for those who want to start Sashiko today. I hope this set will motivate Sashiko market to grow bigger.

 

Sashiko Starter Kit

 

Sashiko Starter Set | Everything you need to start Sashiko

 

In order to learn what Sashiko is and how we practice Sashiko stitching, please refer to the overview article about Sashiko.

In this Set, you will have everything you would need to start Sashiko stitching, besides a ballpoint pen or a tracing wheel. A cheap ballpoint pen from a dollar store  (preferably with red ink) would be fine. If you would need a threader, please get it by yourself. Also, some project may require the interface. The interface is not included.

 

The set include;

 

Sashiko Starter Set 5

 

Imagine what you want to make with Sashiko. It’s the start.

After you get the Sashiko Starter Set, it is up to what you make. We will keep updating the website and video tutorials for stimulation and inspiration for your Sashiko. Imagine what you want to do with Sashiko. It is the start of your enjoyable journey with Sashiko.

 

 

Sashiko Pattern Book with as many as 92 of patterns

When you would like to learn Sashiko, getting a good resource is necessary. There are many good books written about Sashiko in the market. Here, I introduce a Sashiko Pattern Book, with as many as 92 patterns in it. All the contents are written in Japanese…. therefore it may not suitable for everyone who is reading this blog. However, looking at the pattern will inspire you to create your next Sashiko project.

 

*You can check a part of the book contents from Japanese Amazon Site. They are all in Japanese, but just click the photo of this page so you will see a pop-up page with sample pages.

 

 

Sashiko Pattern Book

 

It is inspiring by just looking at Sashiko Pattern Book

 

Sashiko is all about your inspiration. There are unlimited numbers of patterns for Sashiko. The patterns are not only “Asano-Ha” or “Shippou.” Any stitchers can create their own patterns. However… it is very difficult to come up with stylish, cool and attractive patterns since Sashiko is different from drawing. Even if a drawing looks good on a sheet of paper, the drawing may not look good on the fabric after stitching. Creating a pattern is another challenging part of Sashiko.

No worries, though. We have all the patterns from past as asset. This book introduces as many as 92 patterns for Sashiko including the traditional ones and contemporary ones. It is inspiring to look at these patterns. The patterns will motivate you to do another Sashiko project.

 

We have some patterns for download as PDF.

You can download and use them as much as you want after one-time purchase. One package has 4 traditional Sashiko patterns including “Asano-Ha” or “Shippou”. The other is more modified based on the traditional patterns.

 

Sashiko book pattern _ traditional patterns
Traditional Patterns
Sashiko book pattern _ modified patterns
Modified Patterns

A process of transferring patterns on the fabric is easy. A piece of cake.

Are you worried about transferring pattern on the fabric? It is very easy when you follow the appropriate procedure. We introduce a process of transferring pattern on the fabric with unique materials. Every material is also available on this website with reasonable price.

 

Our goal to write a book about Sashiko.

Ah. It is one of our ultimate goals to write a book about Sashiko based on our 30+ years of experience and 50+ years of our history. I hope this website will be our milestone to write a book in future. We can focus on Sashiko as well as Boro and mending.

 

Sashiko Pattern Book

If you know any publisher who may be interested, or if you are the one who can publish a book, please contact us.

 

Sashiko Tutorial Videos

Directory of Sashiko Tutorial Videos

Sashi.Co & Keiko Futatsuya and Upcycle Stitches LLC create a series of Sashiko Tutorial Videos. We have a Youtube channel, and of course, every video is free to watch.

Here is a directory of Sashiko Tutorial Videos for the reference.

 

List of Sashiko Tutorial Videos

  1. How to do Sashiko Stitching ~ How to use Sashiko Thimble
    1. Another day of stitching (just stitching / no music no words)
  2. Transfer Sashiko Patterns on to the fabric
  3. How to Not to make knots in Sashiko ~ Overlay Stitching
  4. Making Itomaki Sashiko Thread Bobbin
  5. Denim Jeans Repair ~ Preview

 

How to do Sashiko Stitching

Sashiko requires a unique thimble in stitching. This is our first video with a challenge of showing how to use a Sashiko thimble. This is very important subject, so we will try to upload more sashiko tutorial videos.

 

 

 

Transfer Sashiko Patterns on to the fabric

A good Sashiko project does not indicate only stitching. The preparation of Sashiko fabric is a very important step to get the better Sashiko result. In this video, you can learn how we transfer Sashiko patterns onto the fabric. All of the supplies and materials are available online. Enjoy the video, and try it by yourself.

 

 

 

How to Not to make knots in Sashiko ~ Overlay Stitching

Most of the hand-stitching require the knots at the end of the thread to secure the stitching. In Sashiko, we occasionally do not make knots for the reasons. Instead of making knots, we secure the thread on the fabric by making overlay stitching. This is a video showing how to make overlay stitching instead of knots.

 

Making Itomaki Sashiko Thread Bobbin

Making Sashiko thread bobbin (ITOMAKI) is a minor project. However, it is very important to learn how to keep your Sashiko thread in a good shape. Sashiko thread is more expensive than the other types of embroidery thread. Our Sashiko thread has the length of the 145 meter and it is pretty long. Take a moment and watch the video so you will not waste any Sashiko thread you get.

 

Denim Jeans Repair ~ Preview

Sashiko is becoming famous because many people enjoy the Denim Repair. So do we.

BORO | Textile Art from Ancient Japan

Every time I host a Sashiko workshop in NYC, I hear the word of BORO.

The word of “BORO” became famous in these 15 years or so. People in the art industry discovered the beauty of Japanese vintage fabric, especially those were used and repaired repeatedly. As a Japanese who grew up with a lot of textile in the traditional Sashiko family, I remember the trend with BORO was somewhat surprising.

In Japanese, the word Boro (襤褸)means;

  1. A piece of useless fabric after using repeatedly
  2. Torn cloth with holes and patches. Squalid garment. (Usually, the negative image with the word of Boro)

The Japanese sometimes call it Ranru with the same Japanese written character. Ranru means a garment with many damages, tears, and patches.

The contemporary BORO culture spotlight not only the ordinary Japanese definition as old garments but also the vintage fabrics with many patches and repairs. Many Boro pieces are found in forms of Kimono, Noragi  (Japanese style outer Jacket), Futon (Japanese style blanket), Shikimono (Japanese style rug) and so on. They look dirty comparing to the new fabric, but the color created by hundreds of years of time and the combination of patches with repairing are beautiful. BORO sometimes looks like an abstract painting.

Boro 1 Boro 2

At Random Beauty?

Some people say that Boro is a product of at random chance. The people found out the beauty in Boros in the 21 century. It was lucky for the textile culture of Japan that the BORO was discovered. The unique culture of Japan, such as Mottainai (regret concerning waste) contributed to the process of creating Boros. 

Yes. The Japanese had a unique culture of saving and appreciating not only the fabric but also everything around them. Speaking of Mottainai culture in fabric, a mother told a daughter that, if she has a large piece of fabric enough to wrap 3 soybeans, she should keep the piece so she will be able to repair the other fabric. In the process of economical growth in Japan, some Boros were thrown away because of its nature… it is literally a piece of filthy, useless, and fragile fabric. I agree that the Japanese didn’t introduce the artistic aspect in Boros. However, I do not think that the BORO is a product of at random chance or accidental art. They tried to be beautiful.

Boro is Designed fabric by ordinary farmers.

I think, and I know, that the process of creating Boro requires a lot of thinking and designing. If Japanese people only needed to mend the fabric, why didn’t they use mono-color thread and plain solid color fabric…? Using simple thread and one colored fabric throughout their life would have their family finance much easier. Instead, they designed the Boro to enjoy her/him more fashion in their limited resource.

The ordinary farmers in Japan tried to enjoy the fashion and arts within the capacity of what they can. This is human nature to dress their up. The fashion sense of Japanese people is the origin of Boros, I believe.

Boro 3 Boro 4

BORO as the result of Sashiko

The Japanese people created BORO by repeating the process of mending the fabric. I believe that we call the process of mending “Sashiko.” Sashiko is not only a form of hand-stitching but also the process of stitching with focusing on design and function simultaneously.

Many people are interested in Sashiko as a technique to make decorative stitching. Sashiko became more decorative stitching after the Japanese started enjoying enough amount of fabrics and threads. However, as a Sashiko artisan, I would like to introduce the beauty of mending, and the aspect of Sashiko which can make your garments more special.

My mother Keiko started the project called Sashi.Co & Keiko Futatsuya to revive the old fabric to contemporary fashion/art by Sashiko. It is impossible to make “new BORO” in this century because the BORO requires the color fade-out with hundreds of years and repeated repairing the fabric. What Keiko focus now is to find the Boro (or Boro like, vintage, and antique fabric) and repair the BORO. We believe this is one of our responsibilities to pass down the culture to next generation as Sashiko artisans.

Learn Sashiko, share your Sashiko project, and let’s enjoy Boro-like fashion starting in 21st century.

Boro 6 Boro 5

We are a team to make Boro-to-be in the next Century.

One of my goal of this website is to make Sashiko open-source matter. I want as many people as possible to know what Sashiko is, enjoy the process of stitching, and feel satisfied by the result. We have some online tutorials and online store to start learning Sashiko.

The Sashiko doesn’t limit your project by rules or regulation. You can do whatever you want. My hobby is to mend jeans, and many people enjoyed my Sashiko mending workshop in NYC.

By the way, when I say I wear a garment with mending, people may think that I am against to the mass consumption society.

They may think I care the ecology more than the fashion. Some may think I am in need of… and saving money for food. It is wrong. Again, I believe it is human instinct to make us attractive throughout fashion, and the mending with cool fabric can be a good way to attract the others. I am proud of my ancestor, who cared the fashion no matter how in need they were.

I hope you can join our team to make “Boro to be” in the next century.

Although I don’t know if our descendants find it beautiful or not, as long as we enjoy the process of appreciating the fabric, I am pretty sure this trend will be another fashion culture in 2xxx. 

What you need to join our team are simple of two mindsets.

Passion for the fashion and appreciation for the fabric.

Sashiko Thread | The key of good Sashiko

In order to cook a tasty meal, you would need fresh & quality ingredients. Similarly, in order to complete a beautiful Sashiko project, the quality Sashiko thread is the key to succeeding. Not only the good Sashiko thread provide the better stitching result, but it reduces your stress while stitching. Sashiko requires a lot of time to invest. Less stress while stitching hugely contribute to the better result.

 

sashiko thread

 

What kind of Sashiko thread should we choose?

The thread should be strong enough to strengthen the fabric. It should be thick enough to create beautiful stitches. It should be smooth so the thread wouldn’t damage the fabric. The tight twisting thread will reduce the richness of stitching. The loose twisting thread will tear apart while stitching and it will cause stress. Finding the balanced twist is one of the most important factors in finding the best thread. When you get cheap and poor quality Sashiko thread, the thread will fray easily and will be cut in actual stitching process.

 

Choosing the appropriate thread is one good journey many Sashiko artists encounter. We, as Sashiko artists, came to the conclusion to what is the best Sashiko Thread.

 

Sashiko Thread with our choice.

Japanese thread manufacture, Coron Seishi, makes one of the best Sashiko threads in the market. The thread satisfies most of the requirements Sashiko artist thinks, and the result is very rewarding. Almost 100% of Sashiko products from Sashi.Co & Keiko Futatsuya and Upcycle Stitches LLC use these Sashiko threads from Coron.

 

Sashiko Thread 2

 

 

The thread consists 4 rich embroidery flosses, twisted in a unique way to keep the thickness for beautiful stitches, yet tightness to avoid separating the thread while stitching. This is the balance I mentioned above. Coron also put the thread in a series of special processes so thread becomes smooth and soft.

In our online store, we have 4 kinds of Sashiko thread available for sale. Two of them are from Sashi.Co & Keiko Futatsuya (Colored and directed by Keiko / the thread is manufactured by Coron.) Two of them are from Coron manufactory (Colored synthetically and manufactured by Coron).

 

Natural Dye Sashiko Thread

Sashiko Thread Natural Dye

When Keiko Futatsuya started working on her own Sashiko projects, which were mainly “one-of-a-kind” Sashiko Jackets and bags, she faced to the big challenge of finding the exact color she wanted to use. She wanted to adjust the color to the fabric, especially those from the past, the Japanese vintage (antique) fabric. We had a good variety of colored Sashiko thread. However, she couldn’t compromise on what she wanted.

This is her journey of natural dye thread started.

Now, we have about 30 kinds of colors. Some were sold-out and will not be back in stock since the color was so unique (made by random conditions she can not recreate). She is getting better and better at creating Natural Dye Sashiko thread.

 

 

Sashiko Thread Natural Dye
Blue is a very challenging color to dye. (by Logwood)

The process of dyeing the thread with Natural dye has a lot of stories. It is my hope to keep introducing her journey in this website.

Articles about Natural Dye Sashiko Thread

 

Beautiful Indigo Blue and Kakishibu Gold are available in Sashiko Thread Collection, finally.

 

Kakishibu Dyed Thread Natural Indigo Dyed Thread Bobbin

 

I hope you would have a chance to enjoy the beautiful color of Natural, hand-dye Sashiko thread.

 

 

Original Color (Exclusive) Sashiko Thread

Sashiko Thread

 

In the process of Natural Dye and Hand Dye, Keiko only can create about 15 skeins. The production result is between 10 skeins to 20 skeins because of the skeins do not meet her standard. She realized it takes too long to dye the thread when she works on the big Sashiko project.

After talking to a color specialist and Coron, she succeeded to create these 2 colors thread. They are dyed by synthetic dyes like the other solid color thread. However, they have a warm/natural like color similar to our natural dye thread.

They are exclusive colors Keiko ordered. It is Sashi.Co original Sashiko thread.

 

 

Mono Color / Solid Color Sashiko Thread

Sashiko Thread Mono Color

Coron Seishi manufacture these beautiful Sashiko threads. “#10 – Original (unbleached) White” and “#12 – Bright (bleached) white” is the all-time popular item. We use A LOT of these threads in our Sashiko project. The smoothness, the thickness, and the strength of threads improve the stitching experience and color and cotton quality will result in great stitches.

There are 15 colors for solid mono color thread. Every color is available in our online store, etsy, and even on Amazon.

 

 

Variegated Color Sashiko Thread

Variegated Color threads are also very popular for those who enjoys the gradation of colors in their Sashiko projects. We have 5 color variations.

  • #201 – Prime color variation
  • #202 – Pastel color variation
  • #203 – Read to White gradation
  • #204 – Green to White gradation
  • #205 – Blue to White gradation

 

 

Sashiko Variegated Color

 

As a summary for your Sashiko experience

It is very critical to choose the appropriate Sashiko thread to your Sashiko project. As I mention repeatedly, Sashiko requires you to invest a lot of your time. I really want you to get rewarded by having the great Sashiko stitches and finished products. I believe sharing the beauty of Sashiko stitching and its fun process is the best way to introduce Sashiko to the world.

 

Enjoy Sashiko!

Sashiko Mending Gathering

Mending Jeans and Garments with Sashiko

I started providing Sashiko workshops in NYC in 2017. I was happily surprised so many people were interested in Sashiko stitching. At the same time, I learned that “upcycle and repurpose culture” for garments is getting so big and popular along to the keyword of Sashiko. Many people asked me if I can repair denim, and the requests encouraged me to offer mending jeans workshop in NYC. Mending jeans with Sashiko stitching was simply my personal hobby, and now it gets attention.

 

I am happy to share what I do.

In this website, Upcycle Stitches LLC shares some of our Sashiko mending/repairing projects.

 

Sashiko Mending
A photo of Boro Jacket. The result of repeating Sashiko Mending

 

What do you need for mending Jeans

Mending and repairing denim fabric requires several good quality tools. It is simply a hand-stitching process, so you can use any types of hand-sewing needle, thimble, and thread. However, we strongly recommend getting a good quality one. Otherwise, you may waste your time and damage the garment you love. If you would like to do the work we are doing in this website, please get the supplies and tools from our online store. It can protect you from the detour you may end up with by getting the inappropriate tools and supplies.

 

For Sashiko, we strongly recommend using tools specifically designed for Sashiko. Here is a list of the reason.

  • Sashiko (刺し子) is a Japanese word which means “mending garment by stitching” developed in Japan a couple hundred years ago. It is my understanding of Sashiko, but I believe my definition of Sashiko is pretty accurate. Sashiko is a good technique to repair the fabric.
  • Tools and Supplies for Sashiko have all the requirement to complete the mending with good results.
    • Sashiko needles are strong enough to stitch through several layers of fabric, even with new denim.
    • Sashiko thread is thick and strong enough to hold the patches or make fabric stronger. The thickness will result in beautiful stitches. If you would like to hide the stitches, you may use thin thread… but I also recommend you to use a sewing machine.
    • Sashiko thimble and its appropriate way of using will speed up your stitching. Also, it will give you better even stitches, which result in beautiful appearance.

 

Please refe tor another article about Sashiko tools.

Mending Jeans

 

Type of mending can Sashiko offer

 

 

Patch over the Sashiko and/or Vintage Kofu Fabric over the damaged Area.

Patch the Sashiko and/or Vintage Kofu Fabric from the backside of torn fabric or the hole. I prefer this method.

 

You may cut some of the non-damaged garments and then patchwork with Sashiko swatches. I wouldn’t call it “Boro” but it certainly is the upcycling and repurposing process.

 

Sashiko’s original purpose was to make fabric stronger. We occasionally perform Sashiko stitching directly on the used denim. The more fabric get stronger, the longer you may wear.

 

 

 

More Articles about each project of mending jeans and garments

Here is a list of past projects.

I included the article about the Sashiko stitching to reinforce the fabric and to decorate the garment.

 

Sashiko Boro Knots Cover

Sashiko Boro Knots and more | Follow-up Video

I summarized the wisdom of "Sashiko Overlay stitching (not making knots in Sashiko)" in the previous blog post. I tried ...
Modern Denim Fashion 2

Modern Denim Fashion with Japanese Sashiko

The word of Sashiko is getting popular in many industries, even in a field of fashion. As the Sashiko artist, ...
Wallet Sashiko Boro Repair 1

Wallet Sashiko Boro Repair Project

Since 2012, I have been using a Sashiko card-holder as a wallet to carry my debit/credit cards. After repeating putting ...

Sashiko mending project in one warm day.

(This is a revised article about Sashiko Mending from the website of Sashi.Co & Keiko Futatsuya.) We have more articles ...

Sashiko Mending Jeans / How I enjoy Sashiko

When I start introducing Sashiko in English about 10 years ago, the word of SASHIKO wasn't popular among the general ...

 

Text Links in Mending Jeans Category

1. Mending Jeans in a warm day (Mending) / (Original Article is on Sashi.Co & Keiko Futatsuya)
2. How I enjoy Sashiko with Mending Sashiko Jeans (Mending)
3. Modern Denim Fashion with Sashiko (Direct Stitching)
June 2017 Sashiko Workshop in NYC

How to Start Sashiko | A tutorial from Sashiko Artisans

Sashiko  (刺し子) is a form of needlework developed in Japan a couple of centuries ago.

We can find its history in several regions in Japan, where the Japanese had to experience the severe winter. Sashiko used to be a job for women to mend men’s garments over the winter. Both men and women worked as farmers over the summer. Men worked in the wood and women repaired the fabric over the winter. The routine still exist in some places. Our partner, Sashi.Co & Keiko Futatsuya, slows down over summer because many Sashiko artisans work as famers primary.

As long as I know, there is neither the solid definition nor the answer to what Sashiko is. Each regions developed Sashiko in their unique way, and each style of them is very beautiful. My definition of Sashiko is that it is a process of mending the fabric to repair, strengthen and warmth the garment, which family member will wear and this is a really relaxing activity, although if you want to really relax you could visit this website for THCA to get the best products for this . Well, let me stop here. I am not writing a book about its history.

However, I believe it is one of my missions to explore what Sashiko is. The exploration will be a big one, so please follow the link if you are interested in understanding it. I am working on some reading materials.

Sashiko Stitching  / How to stitch

Sashiko transformed itself over the years and centuries.

We now mainly enjoy Sashiko as a decorative form of needlework. The simple stitching with the traditional combination, which is Indigo Dye Fabric and White thread, attract many people. We can find its unique stitchings in tablewares, clothes like jackets or shirts, handbags, and tapestries. I’ve had workshops for quilters, which they loved the taste of Sashiko.

There is no such a thing as “the rule”. You can do Sashiko on any kind of fabric with any color. However, there are efficient and beautiful ways to do stitching based on its history and accumurated wisdom. As a Sashiko artist from surviving traditional family in Japan, I will introduce the traditional and basics of Sashiko.

Tools and Materials to prepare in the beginning.

It is very easy to start. You do not need a huge investment to prepare what you need. Here is a list of things you would need to start. I wrote about the tools we use.

*I wrote an article about the tools we use.

List of things you would need to start

Sashiko 1 Sashiko Thimble Sashiko Pattern
Sashiiko Fabric Boro Sashiko Needle Tracing Tool
  1. Sashiko Thread | Pick a good one
  2. Fabric | Solid Cotton fabric is recommended
  3. Sashiko Needle
  4. Sashiko Thimble
  5. Pattern | Anything you would like to
  6. Tracing tools such as tracing paper or chalk pencil

*Each Link Above goes to our Online Store.

*Click here for little more information for each material.

Preparation

Preparation, either drawing the pattern on the fabric or transferring the pattern onto the fabric, is a very important process. Either way, please make sure that the patterns are strongly visible on the fabric. Once you start doing stitching, the pattern may fade off. In case, reinforce the line accordingly. Having a good pattern on the fabric is a key to accomplish the better result.

If you are using the transferring method from patterns printed on papers, please refer to another article of mine, how to transfer the pattern onto fabric. With online video tutorial, you will be able to grasp the process of transferring the pattern with appropriate tools. If you are drawing the pattern on the fabric with using rulers and pencil, refer to the article about how to draw the symentric patterns (coming soon).

After the pattern in nicely on your fabric, trim your fabric to appropriate size for your project. Let do actual stitching!

Stitching – How to use tools

Among several Sashiko methods, naminui method (Running Stitching) is one of my specialty. I will focus on Naminui on this introduction page. In order to perform Naminui, put the thimble as the picture below show. A round shape facing down, and the thimble is on the middle finger of your dominant hand. Try to practice hold the needle as the picture show. This is the basic and standard figure of how to hold the needle using the unique shaped round thimble.

Before stitching, after practicing the figure, do not forget to thread the needle. If you choose the appropriate needle, it shouldn’t be too difficult to thread through. Of course, you can use threader if you need support. Also, putting a hint of Vaseline on the tip of the thread may help the threading process.

Let’s start stitching

In my workshop, I always say;

“Hold the fabric and needle together with using your thumb and the tip of middle finger. The needle should be on your dominant hand. Then support the fabric with another hand. Move (push) the needle while making stitches”

Then I see confused faces in the classroom. Always.

It is pretty difficult to explain how to make Sashiko stitches in written contents. The standard form is shown in the photo below. I understand that you do not understand by looking at photos.

Since it is difficult to explain in written form, I uploaded several videos how to do Sashiko stitching. I am learning how to make videos, so it has a chance to re-upload the better videos. Check our Youtube channel for the update and more information.

Sashi.Co Youtube Channel

Example with Shippou Pattern

Coming soon.

Tips for the better experience

Making no knots…?

Regular hand-sewing and stitching require a knot at the end of the thread to hold. However, we often avoid making the knots when we start stitching and end stitching. Instead, we make several “over-ray” stitches to hold the thread and fabric. The picture below shows a few stitches which as 2 colors, like pink and yellow, pink and light green. These are over-ray stitching and the Sashiko thread makes it possible to replace the knots. (I believe most of the(I believe most of the regular embroidery thread will not work as knots even if you make several over-ray stitches.)

The “knot-less” stitching makes fabric more smooth, and it is great techniques for projects you need to use both side of fabric. Here are some supporting links to over-ray stitching including an online video tutorial how to make over-ray stitching.

How many stitches should we make?

You may make as many stitches as you want as long as the needle let you do. Some artists makes as many as 30 stitches without smoothing the fabric. The unique method of Naminui and the way to hold the needle and thimble make it possible. When you work on the patterns with straight line (like the picture below) making many stitches will save you time and give you even stitches. When you work on the pattern with circles or curves, try to keep the stitches small and less stitches so you will make smooth and nice curve by stitches.

By the way, the picture above another picture showing the overlay stitching.

Here is a video showing the Naminui Stitching that I make.

Right or Wrong | Any regulation?

I personally believe there is no such a thing as “right” or “wrong” in Sashiko stitching. It isn’t structured tradition like other types of Japanese traditional culture such as “Sado / Tea ceremony” and “Ikebana/flower arrangement art.” After all, Sashiko was merely a stitching custom which the ordinary people practice daily basis. So, do not worry about doing right or wrong. Therefore, there isn’t any regulation. Just enjoy the process of stitching.

Even stitches always give you the good result.

Although there isn’t any regulation, there are a few suggestons you may take into consideration. The first suggestion is about the length of one stitch. There is no standard for the length of Sashiko. No Sashiko tell you that you have to make, let’s say, 1mm length stitches throughout the project. Just try to keep the even stitches throughout your project. Even if you have relatively big stitches for the first line, you may want to keep the same length. Even stitches always give you the good result.

You will be able to adjust the length of stitching based on what your Sashiko project require. Jeans mending require the bigger stitches. A pillow with curve line will require small and precise stitches.

Question. Which is the best Sashiko stitching?

Look at the center of this Sashiko pattern, where 3 lines cross. Which point would be the best Sashiko, either A, B or C?

Some book may say that “A” is the “right” Sashiko and “B” and “C” are not “right” so if you have B and C, you should retry it. In my opinion, B and C are also good Sashiko. Why? Because every line keeps the same length throughout the pattern.

Let’s look at another picture.

This is the exact same pattern from above. Do you even find point A, B and C? Are they that significant when you look from distance? Sashiko tend to have many stitches on the fabric. So small “adjustment” is not necessary. If you have even stitches, the result will get better.

In fact, it is up to your preference after all.

I prefer the Sashiko with “even stitches without adjusting much.” Some people may prefer adjusting stitches with almost perfect pattern looking.The beauty of Sashiko is partically because of its inperfectionism, so I always teach my student to not to worry about the small detail. In stead of redoing the Sashiko, I will move on to another project so you can stitch more and more. Trust me. If you keep the even stitches with appropriate length for your project, the result will be great.

Sashiko Appendix

A series of my exploration to Sashiko history and definition.

More brief information for materials.

Thread

Sashiko Thread

I strongly recommend using “Sashiko thread” for the best results. Sashiko requires a series of think and unique stitches for better appearance as well as strengthing the fabric simultaneously. The regular embroidery floss may be a bit inappropriate for its purpose. You can find more information and articles about Sashiko thread we prefer in our website.

Fabric

Sashiko Fabric

Cotton Fabric is always a good choice for Sashiko. We have used other types of fabric such as silk and linen. However, the cotton fabric will result in the beautiful stitches. Heavy fabric, such as hard denim, may be difficult for the beginners since it requires finger power to push the needle. Light fabric, such as cotton poplin, may require you some practice because of its thinness. The thin fabric is perfect material for stitching double layers. There are more information and articles about the fabric for Sashiko.

  • About preferable fabric for Sashiko stitching

Needle

Picking a good needle is a very important process.

For the better result, the needles should be long enough to hold several stitches. The needle I recommend, which is the one I use, has about 5 cm (2-inch) length. It is longer than usual hand sewing needle. I explain why you need this long needle in other articles and also in a youtube video. The needle should have a relatively big eye for thicker thread. At the last, the needle should be tough enough to stitch the several layers of fabric, and yet flexible enough to keep several stitches.

Thimble

Sashiko thimble

A thimble surprises many workshop participants. This round shape made from metal thimble are not common in other types of stitching. It requires a lot of practice to get used to making stitches with this thimble. One of my workshops focuses on how to use this thimble. Learning how to use the thimble will speed up your stitching and will give you the better result.

Pattern

Any patterns would be great on Sashiko stitching. Japanese geometric patterns are the all-time favorite, but we also get inspiration from other stitching and embroidery culture. It is always a good idea to start with basic and fundamental. In order to learn Sashiko basic, I recommend using some of Japanese geometric patterns. They are available in our online store for download.

Traditional Geometric Patterns
Traditional Geometric Patterns
Modified Geometric Patterns
Modified Geometric Patterns
  • Patterns for Sashiko? What is good and what is bad?

Tracing tools

Sashiko tracing tool

At last, but not the least, getting the appropriate tools for tracing the pattern is another very important process. There are no needs to get some special tracing tools. Chalk pencil, a tracing wheel, safety pins, and so on from a local hobby store would be just fine. I learned that some supplies and tools are difficult to get in the United States, so here is a list of things we carry in our inventory.

  • Carbon Paper (Transfer Paper)
  • Mylar Paper (Poly Sheet)

For the tutorial how to transfer the pattern onto the fabric, please refer the other articles I wrote as well as the youtube video. I also sell the kit to practice how to transfer the pattern. You can use the Indigo Dye fabric for Sashiko after you practiced transferring pattern onto the fabric.

Update 2019 Fall

Thank you very much for reading a long article. I wrote this article about 2 years ago (in 2017), and there are many updates since. One of the biggest update is the Online Sashiko Class.

In addition to the well-reviewed In-person Sashiko Workshop, we now offer the Online Sashiko Class to learn the core and basic of Sashiko. I can follow up on how you would do Sashiko as we do.

I look forward to meeting you there, either In-person or Online (I have live session to meet, too).

Sashiko mending project in one warm day.

(This is a revised article about Sashiko Mending from the website of Sashi.Co & Keiko Futatsuya.)

We have more articles about Sashiko Mending in our website category: Upcycle Stitches Sashiko Mending

 


Surprisingly nice warm day in February of Pensylvania. I decided to do a small Sashiko mending project in a warm sunlight. What do you do when you find a hole in your jeans? I repair it with Sashiko stitching. Sashiko Mending Project, here it goes!

 

 

Sashiko Mending Process with pictures

Match the Sashiko fabric to jeans. Ah… it is so bright and warm outside. I have been waiting for this warm day over severe winter in Central PA.

The Sashiko fabric in the photo is the leftover (the edge after trimming) from different Sashiko project by “Sashi.Co & Keiko Futatsuya.” Preparing and making the Sashiko fabric is the most enjoyable part of Sashiko… and picking the best matching fabric is the most exciting time. I choose this Japanese vintage fabric, layered with red vintage one.

Preparing and making the Sashiko fabric is the most enjoyable part of Sashiko… and picking the best matching fabric is the most exciting time. I choose this Japanese vintage fabric, layered with red vintage one.

Sashiko Mending 2

 

The fabric has 2 layers. It looked a bit frayed on the edge.

Therefore, I used a sewing machine to trim the edge for easier repair.

 

Next… Prepare the needle and thread.

Sashiko Mending 2

 

Use any thread to do Basting. It will be removed after performing actual Sashiko.

No need to do it if the project is simple. I still need to do basting to get the better result… more practice.

Sashiko Mending 4

 

I used blind stitching technique here to attach the fabric to the jeans.

Yes, I am patching the fabric from the back so the jeans will have the main fabric from the hole. I also used the Natural Indigo Dyed Sashiko thread here. The better Sashiko thread I use, the better result I get. Don’t forget to use our Sashiko thread for the best purpose.

Sashiko Mending 3

Sashiko Mended / Repaired Jeans is cool, I believe.

Done! I am pretty satisfied the result. It will get better by using this pair of jeans since the damage will make it more natural.

Mending Sashiko Jeans

Mending Process 5

It took about 1 ~ 2 hours to complete the mending and repairing process, including the matching the fabric time and excluding the Sashiko fabric preparation. Again, It doesn’t include the time of preparing Sashiko fabric.

Upcycle it to get another value.

Sashiko is a process of repairing/reinforcing the fabric to repurpose. Upcycing the fabric is our daily mission.

I hope this small project will share some insight into the beauty of Sashiko and mending.

 

 

Sashiko Tote Bag #004 by Sashi.Co & Keiko Futatsuya

We started carrying some of Sashiko Art Pieces as inventory in USA. Sashiko Tote Bag (#004) by Sashi.Co & Keiko Futatsuya is one of the bags I love the most. The indigo color and natural pink color dyed with Western Madder looks so beautiful.

Sashiko Tote Bag 1

 

 

 

Japanese Vintage Fabric and Natural Dye (Hand-Dye) Sashiko Thread

Sashi.Co & Keiko Futatsuya focuses on repurposing the fabric.

Kimono, a Japanese traditional garment which many Japanese put on every day, now become special garment to wear for the special occasion. Some Japanese do not wear Kimono at all throughout her/his life. In these transition of culture, Kimono became a treasure no one sees in the dresser.

Keiko focuses on putting the spotlight to Kimono with good quality fabric.

They (In fact, I help so “we”) collect goo Japanese vintage fabric, we dye thread by hand with using natural dyes and stitch it up with Sashiko techniques. These products are one of the kinds product, and it is impossible to make the exactly same product. (We try to make the similar one, but it is impossible to get the exactly same fabric since they are only found in the antique market.)

 

Sashiko makes fabric stronger. Since every process is done by hands, it is relatively easy to mend when it get torn. The more the bag is used, the more bag looks natural, exclusive and beautiful. I hope you will have a chance to get one of these Sashiko bags. It will be your life-long partner.

 

 

Sashiko Tote Bag #004 is available online

The bag is available on our Esty Store.

【Size】
– Height x Width → 30cm x 33cm
– Bottom → 11cm x 27cm (oval shape)
– Handle → 3.5cm width x 43cm length

【Material】
Kofu – Vintage Fabric – Cotton 100%
Botanical dye Sashiko thread – Cotton 100%

 

Sashiko Tote Bag _2
Sashiko Bag Front
Sashiko Tote Bag _3
Sashiko Bag Back
Sashiko Tote Bag _4
Sashiko Bag Side
Sashiko Tote Bag _5
Sashiko Bag Inside