handle Natural Dye Thread Cover

How to handle Natural Dye Thread & fabric

The soft color from the natural dyes is significantly different from the vivid color with chemical dyes. We enjoy the color of Natural Dye Sashiko thread, especially in a process of making “Boro” so that both fabric and thread can age – change color – together with overtime. We repeatedly tested the color stability, either if the color fades out by washing, before introducing them online. However, the Natural Dyed & Hand Dyed Sashiko thread & fabric require some attention and understanding of how to handle. The color will not be washed away by regular care for the natural dye. However, we do not recommend to throw them to the washing machine with detergent (which may have kind of “bleach” in it). Here, we introduce how to handle Natural Dye Thread and Fabric.

“Don’t” do list | Handle Natural Dye Thread with care.

First of all, please never use “Bleach” in washing and to handle Natural Dye thread. One wash with bleach may (and most likely “will”) completely wash away the natural color and make it bright white. The bleach is strong enough to do its job – to make it bright white.

The point we have to pay attention here is that some of “regular detergent” may contain the same chemical as the bleach in it. For example, if a detergent say “stain removal”, then the detergent may be too strong for the Natural Dye color.

Also, putting the Natural Dye thread and fabric in the water with detergent for a long time is not a good idea. The more time the color touches the detergent, the more color may be washed away.

Do list | How to well Handle Natural Dye Thread

Generally speaking, the natural dye doesn’t go well with the chemical detergent. In need of using the detergent, please choose the “Neutral Detergent”. Although it is quite easy to find them in Japan, I do not find the neutral detergent easily in the US (we can find them but quite expensive). In that case, please try to find the “gentle” or “soft” detergent and make sure to test the thread and fabric if the color will be washed out or not. In my experience, most of the color will stay on unless the detergent is “gentle” and washed gently. However, as a baseline, please handle Natural Dye thread with maximum Care.

Super beautiful color from nature. Although the core enjoyment of natural dye is to enjoy the color change, it is so sad to lose the color.

Summary of Do and Don’t


  • Hand-wash with no detergent. Or gentle wash with Neutral Detergent.


  • Using Bleach, or strong detergent which may contain Bleach.
  • Machine wash with long-cycle (or extra wash cycle).
  • Leave the thread or fabric in water (with detergent) for a long time.

Understand the reaction process

It is probably difficult to find a “Natural Dye” items in the mass-produced market. It is because the process of natural-dye requires a lot of attention and care. The color from nature will not stay on the thread or fabric by dipping them into a vat. It isn’t like a watercolor, putting paint on the paper.

The natural color stays on the thread and fabric by chemical reaction with a catalyst. We usually use the metal, such as iron or copper, to make the reaction happen. In another example, the Authentic Japanese Indigo Dye (Hon-Aizome), they use the oxidation process to create such a beautiful blue. The fabric and thread right after dipped in the vat looks somewhat “gray” or “brown”. In a process of oxidation (touching the air that contains oxygen), the beautiful Japanese blue comes out.

The chemical reaction doesn’t mean using chemical materials. Here, chemical reaction equals to Oxidation and Reduction. Vinegar will make the liquid more acidic and ash (such as wood ash) make the water more alkalinity. Either of acidic and alkalinity affects the balance of Natural Dye and could end up with washing out the color or changing the color.

Therefore, we strongly recommend using natural detergent, or just water.

The natural dye before the Industrial Revolution

One of the big reasons we use the Natural Dye thread is to recreate the beauty of Japan in hundreds of years ago – before the industrial revolution. Back then, in Japan, they did not have the chemical (artificial) detergent or bleach to wash the fabric. They did not have a washing machine either.

Instead, they washed the fabric and thread by hands with care (attention). I hope you would do the same when you handle Natural Dye thread and fabric.

By the way, this is my personal endnote (which may contradict what I had written so far). Anyhow, I DO wash my Sashiko Stitched Denim with the gentle detergent in a washing machine… I had washed probably more than 100 times over 1~2 years, but I can still see the thread color. The yellow from mountain peach looks more like white, but it still has yellowish color (I believe). I always wash it separately, with a gentle cycle of the washing machine, with a small amount of detergent as I feel. I sometimes do not add the detergent, but at some point, the jeans get smelly that we need some detergent… I hope you can find your own way to handle Natural Dye thread and fabric.

Shop our Natural Dye Sashiko Thread

One of a Kind // Special Fabric Collection

SKU SpecialFabriCCollection_
Out of stock
Product Details

Upcycle Stitches & Atsushi is a Sashiko Artisan and Sashiko Story Teller. I also offer Sashiko Workshops/Online Class to share the Sashiko we practice. At the same time, I am a big fan of Sashiko & other Japanese textile. I think I can call myself a collecter, too.

I am pricing some of my collections to go through Covid-19 pandemic. This is a website for the Special Fabric Collection of Upcycle Stitches. Some Katazome with natural Indigo/Kakishibu/Bengara Dye are very difficult to get again. They are not vintage since they are made by current artisans. However, it is a "Vintage to be" fabric produced by long-established artisans & manufactures.

Nov20_1 Crane and Kusaki Katazome Fabric

【Product Detail】

This is Katazome Cotton Fabric made in Niigata Prefecture. The Pattern is called "Crane and Kusaki (plants)"

The fabric is made for the Japanese ordinary Kimono, and very comfortable & strong.

  • Cotton 100%
  • Natural Indigo Dye
  • The Width is about 14 inch (37 cm)

*Please advised that the price is for each "Cut". For example, if it says, "12 Inch Cut", you will receive a swatch of 12 inch x 14 inch fabric. "48 Inch Cut" means a piece of fabric of 48 inch x 12 inch.

Please contact me first if you would like to have it cut longer than 48 inch. I will adjust the price accordingly with the best pricing I can offer.

【Other notes】

They call this fabric Katakai Cotton as a Registered Japanese Traditional Textile. They also told us that the fabric for Kimono (more for Spring to Summer Kimono). According to the weaver family, this is made in a Mingei Movement with receiving the Mr.Yanagi's advise.

Katazome is one of the most popular Japanese fabric in the vintage market. Therefore, it became extremely difficult to find a good Katazome fabric from the flea market. At the same time, there are very few artisans who produce Katazome Cotton fabric in Japan (the numbers are getting smaller and smaller). I was very fortunate to get the beautiful fabric. This can be a good Kimono fabric, or even for a simple scarf, with or without Sashiko. You can keep using until it gets damaged. Then do Sashiko. It will make one great Boro-to-be item in your project.

*Katazome (型染め) is a Japanese method of dyeing fabrics using a resist paste applied through a stencil.

【How to handle】

The Natural Dye they use has a character of weakness in friction. Please avoid washing machine, and handwash by gently pushing it up and down in the water. The color may be out in washing, so please do not mix with other fabric.

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