03/29/2019 - Upcycle Stitches

In the Sashiko we practice, we sometimes use the both side of fabric as the finished side (both sides finished beautifully as a single layer). In order to make it happen, Sashiko Itokiri (糸切り) is an important process of cleaning the thread leftover by clipping them.

Sashi.Co Youtube Channel https://www.youtube.com/c/sashico

Script of Sashiko Itokiri Video.

Please find the script for Sashiko Itokiri video below just in case you have hard time understanding my English. Enjoy Sashiko!

Hello.

Thank you for watching Sashi.Co Channel.This is Atsushi.

In this video, I am going to talk about a process of cleaning the thread leftover after completing the Sashiko stitching, so called “Itokiri” in Japanese.

As you may have learned already, the Sashiko we practice originally use the both side of fabric as the finished side. Therefore, we do not make knots to secure the stitching. Instead of the knots, we make overlay stitching. For more information of this topic, Please check another video titled “How to not to make a knot in Sashiko”.

After completing the Sashiko stitching, we end up with having a lot of thread tales on the back side of fabric. To complete the project, we clean the side by cutting the thread leftover, and it is called “Itokiri”. You may cut anywhere you made overlay stitches. Do not cut the tale or loop if no overlay stitches are made.

In order to do a good Itokiri process, a grip scissor is the must have item.

I made another video explaining how to use the grip scissors. Please find the video for more information.

Here, a quick review of what is a grip scissor and how to use them.

When we clip the thread, we use the tip of blades instead of the middle (or body) of the blades. By gripping the scissors, I feel as if the tip of blades become my finger tips. I sometime wish that I could just pinch and clip the thread leftover with my nails. The grip scissors are a good substitute to having the super sharp knife like nails.

Since the grip scissors do not require a process of opening the blades, we can keep cutting the thread in a reasonable speed. When a master working on a plain fabric, the speed of Itokiri can be something fun to watch by itself.

That’s pretty much about Itokiri.

Another enjoyable part of Itokiri is the sounds of clipping the thread & moving the blades. I needed to mute the sound because I kept talking in Japanese when I was filming this, but you can watch the unedited version, the archive of this live streaming (3/26 Insta Live.)

Enjoy Itokiri in Silence & Enjoy Sashiko.

Grip scissors available in our store

We have grip scissors selection from a long-established Japanese scissors maker, Misuzu. Everything is made in Japan by the professionals. Although we have the entry model (less than $15.00), I strongly recommend getting the better one, possible the one more than $25.00, if not around $20.00. The difference in using (experience) is not subtle.

The Jacket I worked on this video

A good needle for Sashiko can make a significant difference in Sashiko stitching. One of the factors we need to be attentive is the size of Sashiko Needle Eye. There is a reason why we use only 2 kinds of needles (Both the same length, a slightly different Sashiko Needle Eye size, and from different manufacture). Even for a minor topic like this, Sashiko Needle Eye, we have a lot to share.

I received an honest feedback from a customer:

“I expected the ‘big eye’ needle to have a larger eye than the first ones I ordered, so I am disappointed with those”

I feel sorry when I hear that the customer experience the disappointment. For this case, it happened because I didn’t explain (or clarify) well enough on the product page the reason why we have the needle with the small eye.

Sashiko Needle to do Sashiko

The fundamental purpose of Sashiko is(was) to repair, mend, and strengthening the fabric. Over time, the Japanese enjoyed Sashiko for the decorative purpose, but they also practiced Sashiko for the purpose of making the fabric “better” – thicker, warmer, and stronger.

A needle with a large eye will reduce the stress of threading the needle. However, the bigger the size of thread is, the more risk we have in damaging the fabric. The impact to the fabric may be insignificant for a few times, but over time, Sashiko could damage the fabric instead of making it better. It may not be significant when we work on the strong fabric, like the new fabric. However, when we work on the vintage fabric, the size of Sashiko Needle Eye can be critical.

Therefore, the Sashiko Needle eye has to be as similar thickness as possible to the body, as straight as possible from the tip to the end.

To ordinary for me to explain.

Since we have been using the Sashiko needle for more than a couple of decades, we don’t have much trouble of threading the needle. It was too ordinary for me to mention about the necessity of the size of Sashiko needle eye until I get the feedback. When I wrote the article about the Sashiko needle we use, I didn’t emphasis enough to educate our customers (I mentioned about the importance of the Sashiko needle eye, of course.)

Sashiko Needle | which to buy for Sashiko?

Sashiko Needle Recommendation

We recommend two very similar Sashiko needle from 2 different manufactures. One is offered from Sashi.Co & Keiko Futatsuya, and another is from Tulip Needle. Both of them are in super high quality. I don’t think I can do Sashiko with other needles. Although the both Sashiko needle eye are small in comparison to the other needle in the market, the majority of Sashiko thread (All of the Sashiko thread we offer) can be threaded smoothly. It may require some experience and technique, but it is doable. I mean, I thread the needle every day & in every live streaming, so you can do it.

*It is perfectly fine to use a threader, of course.

The Sashiko needle Atsushi uses

I personally prefer this needle. So, when you see the needle on my Live streaming or other video on Youtube, this is the needle on the picture.

A super sharp needle tip with the flexible body with 51.5 mm length is the must-have item for our Sashiko projects.

Big Eye Straight from Tulip Needle

Another great, supreme quality needle is manufactured by the long-established needle company, called Tulip. To serve the purpose of “the Sashiko needle eye as the similar thickness as the needle body”, this is the best needle.

Please find the details in the separate article.

Tulip Sashiko Needle Big Eye Straight

Although it says “Big Eye”, the difference of the Sashiko Needle Eye between these 2 kinds are very insignificant. This is because we needed to keep the needle size as 51.5 mm as well as as similar thickness as through the main to the end of the needle.

I imagine, the Tulip company named the needle, “Big Eye Straight” in comparison to the other needle they manufacture. This is a part of explanation I didn’t clarify enough. It is not “Big Eye” in comparison among our product selection.

No needle is wrong

Above said, you can use any needle you prefer. We just use the needle we enjoy the most & for the best possible outcome.

We have a good proverb for a master and his tool.

弘法は筆を選ばない | Kobo ha Fude wo Erabanai = A good workman does not blame his tools. It is true statement, but if a good workman has a choise of getting his favorite tool, I believe he would choose the one he enjoy the most.

What we share is merely our preference & selection based on our experience & wisdom. Please do not take as a “rule” or something you need to follow enjoy Sashiko.

However… a good needle will change your Sashiko experience, and you may never return to the other needles for your Sashiko project… Enjoy Sashiko!